توصيفگر ها :
ﭼﺎﭘﮕﺮ ﺳﻪﺑﻌﺪي , ﺳﺎﺧﺘﺎر ﺣﻠﻘﻮيﭘﻮدي , ﺳﺎزه ﻧﮕﻬﺪارﻧﺪه , ﭘﻠﯽاورﺗﺎن , ﭘﻠﯽﻻكتيك اﺳﯿﺪ , ﭘﻠﯽ وﯾﻨﯿﻞاﻟﮑﻞ
چكيده فارسي :
ﺗﻨﺎﺳﺐ و اﻧﻌﻄﺎفﭘﺬﯾﺮي در ﻃﺮاﺣﯽ ﭘﺎرﭼﻪ و ﺗﻮﻟﯿﺪ ﭘﻮﺷﺎك ﻣﻨﻄﺒﻖ ﺑﺮ سليقه‌ي اﻓﺮاد اﻣﺮي ﺿﺮوري اﺳﺖ.
ﺑﺮ اﯾﻦ اﺳﺎس، ﻣﻨﺴﻮﺟﺎت ﺗﻮﻟﯿﺪ ﺷﺪه ﺗﻮﺳﻂ ﭼﺎپ ﺳﻪﺑﻌﺪي وﯾﮋﮔﯽﻫﺎي ﻃﺮاﺣﯽ در ﻗﺮن ﺑﯿﺴﺖ و ﯾﮑﻢ را ﺑﺮآورده ﻣﯽﮐﻨﻨﺪ و داﻣﻨﻪي ﻃﺮاﺣﯽ را ﮔﺴﺘﺮش ﻣﯽدﻫﻨﺪ. در ﺣﺎل ﺣﺎﺿﺮ، ﻣﻨﺴﻮﺟﺎت
ﺗﻮﻟﯿﺪ ﺷﺪه ﺑﻪ روش ﭼﺎپ ﺳﻪﺑﻌﺪي ﺑﻪ دﻻﯾﻠﯽ ﻧﻈﯿﺮ ﻋﺪم ﻇﺮاﻓﺖ ﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ ﺑﺮاي ﭘﻮﺷﺶ و ﻋﺪم ﺗﺎﻣﯿﻦ اﻧﺘﻘﺎل ﺣﺮارت و رﻃﻮﺑﺖ ﻣﻨﺎﺳﺐ ﻗﺎدر ﻧﯿﺴﺘﻨﺪ ﺑﻪ ﻃﻮر ﮐﺎﻣﻞ ﺟﺎﯾﮕﺰﯾﻦ ﻣﻨﺴﻮﺟﺎت ﻣﺮﺳﻮم ﺷﻮﻧﺪ و ﻋﻤﺪه اﺳﺘﻔﺎده از اﯾﻦ ﻣﻨﺴﻮﺟﺎت در ﺻﻨﻌﺖ ﻣﺪ ﺑﻮده اﺳﺖ. در ﺑﯿﻦ ﺗﻼشﻫﺎي اﻧﺠﺎم ﺷﺪه ﺑﺮاي ﺗﻮﻟﯿﺪ ﻣﻨﺴﻮﺟﺎت ﺑﺎ ﭼﺎﭘﮕﺮﻫﺎي ﺳﻪ ﺑﻌﺪي، ﺗﺤﻘﯿﻘﺎت ﺻﻮرت ﮔﺮﻓﺘﻪ ﺑﺮ روي ﭼﺎپ ﭘﺎرﭼﻪﻫﺎي ﺣﻠﻘﻮي ﭘﻮدي ﺑﻪ دﻟﯿﻞ ﭘﯿﭽﯿﺪﮔﯽ ﺳﺎﺧﺘﺎري ﺑﺴﯿﺎر ﻣﺤﺪود اﺳﺖ. در ﻫﻤ ﯿﻦ راﺳﺘﺎ، در ا ﯾﻦ ﺗﺤﻘﯿﻖ ﺗﻼش ﺷﺪه اﺳﺖ ﺗﺎ ﺳﺎﺧﺘﺎرﻫﺎي ﺣﻠﻘﻮي ﭘﻮدي يكروﺳﯿﻠﻨﺪر ﺳﺎده و ﻧﯿﺰ دوروﺳﯿﻠﻨﺪر رﯾﺐ و اﯾﻨﺘﺮﻻك ﺗﻮﺳﻂ ﭼﺎﭘﮕﺮ ﺳﻪ ﺑﻌﺪي ﺑﺎ روش ﻻﯾﻪﻧﺸﺎﻧﯽ ﻣﺬاب ﭘﻠﯿﻤﺮي ﻃﺮاﺣﯽ و ﺗﻮﻟﯿﺪ ﺷﻮد. ﻫﻤﭽﻨﯿﻦ ﺗﻨﻈﯿﻤﺎت ﻻزم ﺑﺮاي ﺗﻮﻟﯿﺪ اﯾﻦ ﻧﻤﻮﻧﻪﻫﺎ و ﻣﺤﺪودﯾﺖﻫﺎي ﭼﺎپ اﯾﻦ ﻗﻄﻌﺎت ﻧﯿﺰ ﻣﻮرد ﺑﺮرﺳﯽ ﻗﺮار ﻣﯽﮔﯿﺮد. دو ﻓﯿﻼﻣﻨﺖ ﭘﻠﯽﻻﮐﺘﯿﮏ اﺳﯿﺪ و ﭘﻠﯽاورﺗﺎن ﮔﺮﻣﺎﻧﺮم ﺑﺮاي ﺗﻮﻟﯿﺪ ﺳﺎﺧﺘﺎر اﺻﻠﯽ و ﭘﻠﯿﻤﺮ ﭘﻠﯽوﯾﻨﯿﻞ اﻟﮑﻞ ﺣﻼل در آب ﺑﺮاي ﺗﻮﻟﯿﺪ ﺳﺎزهﻧﮕﻬﺪارﻧﺪه ﺟﻬﺖ ﭼﺎپ ﺳﺎﺧﺘﺎر ﺣﻠﻘﻮي ﻣﻮرد اﺳﺘﻔﺎده ﻗﺮار ﮔﺮﻓﺖ. ﻫﻤﭽﻨﯿﻦ از ﻧﺎزلﻫﺎﯾﯽ ﺑﺎ ﺳﻪ ﻗﻄﺮ ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻒ 0/1، 0/2 و 0/4 ﻣﯿﻠﯽﻣﺘﺮ ﺑﺮاي ﺗﻮﻟﯿﺪ ﺳﺎزهﻫﺎي ﺣﻠﻘﻮي اﺳﺘﻔﺎده ﮔﺮدﯾﺪ. ﺳﺎﺧﺘﺎرﻫﺎي ﺣﻠﻘﻮي ﻣﺬﮐﻮر ﺑﺮ ﻃﺒﻖ ﻣﻌﺎدﻻت ﺳﺎﺧﺘﺎري ﻣﻮﺟﻮد در ﻣﺤﯿﻂ ﻧﺮم‌اﻓﺰار آﺑﺎﮐﻮس ﻃﺮاﺣﯽ ﺷﺪه و ﺳﭙﺲ ﺑﺎ اﻧﺠﺎم ﺗﻨﻈﯿﻤﺎت ﻣﺸﺨﺺ ﺗﻮﺳﻂ ﭼﺎﭘﮕﺮ ﺳﻪﺑﻌﺪي ﭼﺎپ ﺷﺪﻧﺪ. ﻧﺘﺎﯾﺞ ﻧﺸﺎن دادﻧﺪ ﮐﻪ ﺑﺎ ﺗﻮﺟﻪ ﺑﻪ ﭘﺎراﻣﺘﺮﻫﺎي ﺳﺎﺧﺘﺎري ﭘﺎرﭼﻪ، اﻧﺠﺎم ﻋﻤﻠﯿﺎت ﭼﺎپ ﻣﻨﺠﺮ ﺑﻪ رﯾﺰش ﺳﺎزه در ﻫﻨﮕﺎم ﭼﺎپ ﻣﯽﮔﺮدد. ﺑﻨﺎﺑﺮاﯾﻦ، اﻧﺠﺎم ﭼﺎپ ﺑﺪون ﺳﺎزه ﻧﮕﻬﺪارﻧﺪه اﻣﮑﺎن ﭘﺬﯾﺮ ﻧﯿﺴﺖ. ﻫﻤﭽﻨﯿﻦ ﺑﺎ ﺗﻮﺟﻪ ﺑﻪ ﭘﺪﯾﺪه ﺗﻮرم ﻣﺎده ﭘﻠﯽ وﯾﻨﯿﻞ اﻟﮑﻞ ﮐﻪ ﺑﺮاي ﺳﺎزه ﻧﮕﻬﺪارﻧﺪه ﻣﻮرد اﺳﺘﻔﺎده ﻗﺮار ﮔﺮﻓﺖ، اﻣﮑﺎن اﺳﺘﻔﺎده از ﻧﺎزل ﺑﺎ ﻗﻄﺮ 0/1 ﻣﯿﻠﯽﻣﺘﺮ وﺟﻮد ﻧﺪارد ﮐﻪ اﯾﻦ ﻋﺎﻣﻞ ﻣﻨﺠﺮ ﺑﻪ ﻣﺤﺪودﯾﺖ ﻇﺮاﻓﺖ ﺳﺎزه ﺣﻠﻘﻮي ﭘﻮدي ﻣﯽﺷﻮد. ﺑﺎ اﺳﺘﻔﺎده از ﻧﺎزل 0/2 ﻋﻤﻠﯿﺎت ﭼﺎپ ﺳﺎزه ﯾﮑﺮوﺳﯿﻠﻨﺪر ﺳﺎده ﺑﺎ ﻣﺎده ﭘﻠﯽ ﻻﮐﺘﯿﮏ اﺳﯿﺪ و ﭘﻠﯽاورﺗﺎن اﻧﺠﺎم ﮔﺮﻓﺖ و ﺧﻮاص ﮐﺸﺸﯽ آن ﻣﻮرد ﺑﺮرﺳﯽ ﻗﺮار ﮔﺮﻓﺖ. ﻫﻤﭽﻨﯿﻦ ﺳﺎزهﻫﺎي دوروﺳﯿﻠﻨﺪر رﯾﺐ و اﯾﻨﺘﺮﻻك ﺑﺎ ﭘﻠﯽ ﻻﮐﺘﯿﮏ اﺳﯿﺪ ﺗﻮﻟﯿﺪ ﺷﺪ ﮐﻪ ﺑﻪ دﻟﯿﻞ ﺿﺨﺎﻣﺖ زﯾﺎد ﮐﺎرﺑﺮد ﻋﻤﻠﯽ ﺑﺮاي آن در ﺻﻨﻌﺖ ﭘﻮﺷﺎك ﻗﺎﺑﻞ ﺗﺼﻮر ﻧﯿﺴﺖ.
ﺑﺮرﺳﯽ ﺧﻮاص ﮐﺸﺸﯽ ﺳﺎزهﻫﺎي ﯾﮑﺮوﺳﯿﻠﻨﺪر ﭼﺎپ ﺷﺪه ﻧﺸﺎن ﻣﯽدﻫﺪ ﮐﻪ ﭘﯿﺶ از آﻧﮑﻪ ﺳﺎﺧﺘﺎر ﺳﺎزه در ﺧﻮاص ﻣﺬﮐﻮر ﺗﺎﺛﯿﺮﮔﺬار ﺑﺎﺷﺪ، وﯾﮋﮔﯽﻫﺎي ﻓﯿﻼﻣﻨﺖ ﻣﻮرد ﻧﻈﺮ ﺗﻌﯿﯿﻦ ﮐﻨﻨﺪه اﺳﺖ .
چكيده انگليسي :
The quality and flexibility of textile fabrics and the production of clothing tailored to individuals'
preferences are a matter of economic. The production of clothing involves materials tailored to
people's tastes. Consequently, 3D printing has been employed to create textile structures with distinct
features, providing durability and comfort. However, textile fabrics made using 3D printing face
challenges such as insufficient fineness for coverage, inadequate heat and moisture transfer, limiting
their complete replacement of conventional fabrics in the fashion industry. Among the attempts to
produce textiles with 3D printers, research on printing powder loop fabrics has been limited due to
structural complexities. This study endeavors to design and produce simple single-cylinder and
ribbed double-cylinder loop structures using 3D printing through molten polymer layering.
Necessary adjustments for producing these samples and the printing constraints of these components
are also examined. Two filaments, polylactic acid and thermoplastic polyurethane, are used for the
main structure, while polyvinyl alcohol as soulbable in water is utilized for the supporting structure
in printing the knit structures. Nozzles with three different diameters, 0.1, 0.2, and 0.4 millimeters,
are used for printing. The mentioned loop structures are designed based on the structural equations
in the Abaqus software and then printed with specific adjustments by the 3D printer. The results show
that, considering the fabric's structural parameters, the printing process leads to structural shedding
during printing. Therefore, printing without a supporting structure is not feasible. Also, due to the
expansion of the polyvinyl alcohol material used for the supporting structure, using a 0.1-millimeter
diameter nozzle is not possible, limiting the fineness of the knit structure. Using a 0.2-millimeter
nozzle, the printing operation of a plain single-jersey structure with polylactic acid and thermoplastic
polyurethane is performed, and its tensile properties are investigated. Additionally, double-jersey
knitted rib and interlock structures are produced with polylactic acid, but their substantial thickness
makes practical use in the fashion industry less conceivable. Analysis the tensile property of the
printed single-jersey structures indicates that, before the structural aspects significantly affect these
properties, the filament properties are determinant.
